Plush toys of these characters are hard to find, and the ones on sale are almost never licensed. So people make their own: a hook, a ball of yarn, and an evening or two per character. This page collects what you actually need — the colour each character uses, what makes each one recognisable, and one reusable base body that will carry all of them.
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To be clear about what this page is. It is the official colour and shape reference, written by the company that owns the characters, plus a generic beginner pattern for the body. We are not publishing individual character patterns yet, and the round-by-round instructions below are the shared base rather than a replica of any one character.
What you need
- A 3 mm hook for aran or worsted weight yarn, or 2.5 mm for DK. A hook that is slightly too small gives a firmer fabric that holds its shape and does not show the stuffing.
- Yarn in the character's main colour plus one skein of white and one of black for outlines, eyelids and small details.
- Toy stuffing, a tapestry needle, stitch markers, and scissors. Mark the first stitch of every round or you will lose your place by round four.
- Felt sheets and fabric glue for eyes and flat features, or 6 mm to 8 mm safety eyes if the finished piece is for an adult collector.
The official colour chart
These are the colours and the features that make each character readable at a glance. Everything in the third column is what people recognise first, so it is worth spending your time there rather than on the body.
| Character | Colour | What makes it recognisable |
|---|---|---|
 Black | Black with a white outline | Stark black silhouette, white edge, minimal face |
 Brud | Brown | A bucket, or mechanical parts, sitting on the head |
 Clukr | Silver | Black eyes under heavy metallic eyelids |
 Durple | Vibrant purple | Dragon styling, two horns, a long tapering body |
 Fun Bot | Silver and gold | Silver body, gold neck plate, boxy robot head |
 Garnold | Gold | Sleek high-tech suit, gold plating across the shoulders |
 Gray | Gray | Cat-like ears and large round eyes |
 Jevin | Blue | Dark blue robe with a black hood |
 Mr. Fun Computer | Gray and rainbow | Rectangular monitor body, rainbow screen |
 Mr. Sun | Yellow and orange | Radiating sun disc behind the face |
 Mr. Tree | Green, brown, black | Leafy crown, brown trunk body, dark face |
 Oren | Orange | Antennae and oversized headphones |
 OWAKCX | Lime green | Tall lime body, effects-character stare |
 Pinki | Pink | Rabbit-inspired, magenta ribbon on top of the head |
 Raddy | Red | Crimson eyelids, black eyes, thin angry brows |
 Simon | Yellow | Antenna with a yellow tip, confident stance |
 Sky | Sky blue | Clear pale blue, calm simple face |
 Tunner | Bourbon spice brown | Brown fur trim, calm expression |
 Vineria | Green | Bottle-shaped body, plant-inspired trim |
 Wenda | White | Cat-like face, tufts of fur on the cheeks |
The four stitches you need
Nothing below needs a stitch outside these four, and each one is worked into the round under it. The terms are US; a UK pattern calls the same stitch a double crochet, so read sc as dc and read an increase as two stitches into one.
- Magic ring. Wrap the yarn twice around two fingers, slide it off, and work the first round into the loop. Pull the short tail at the end and the centre closes with no hole. If the ring keeps loosening, chain two and work the first round into the chain instead; the shape is the same.
- Single crochet (sc). Hook through the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over again, pull through both loops. That is the whole body of every character.
- Increase (inc). Two single crochet into the same stitch. This is what turns a flat disc into a dome, and every growing round below is built from it.
- Decrease (dec). Hook through the front loop of the next stitch and the front loop of the one after it, then work them as one single crochet. Working the front loops only keeps the fabric smooth; a decrease through both loops leaves a visible pucker on the finished face.
Reading the pattern: the number in brackets at the end of a round is the stitch count you should have when the round is done. If it does not match, undo the round rather than carrying the error forward, because every later round assumes that count.
The base body
Every character on the chart above can start from the same ball. Worked in a spiral, in US terms, this body is about 9 cm tall in aran weight. Close each round with a stitch marker rather than a slip stitch.
- Magic ring, 6 single crochet into the ring. (6)
- Increase in each stitch. (12)
- Single crochet, increase — repeat six times. (18)
- Two single crochet, increase — repeat six times. (24)
- Three single crochet, increase — repeat six times. (30)
- Rounds 6 to 12: single crochet in every stitch, no increases. (30)
- Three single crochet, decrease — repeat six times. (24)
- Two single crochet, decrease — repeat six times. (18)
- Stuff firmly now, in small pieces, until the body holds its shape without bulging.
- Single crochet, decrease — repeat six times. (12)
- Decrease six times. (6)
- Draw the yarn through the last six stitches, pull closed, weave in the end.
For a taller character, add plain rounds between rounds 6 and 12. For a narrower one, work the same sequence in a thinner yarn with a 2.5 mm hook rather than changing the stitch counts, which keeps the shape predictable.
Making each one recognisable
The body is the easy part; almost all of the recognition lives in four places.
Ears. Gray and Wenda both read as cat-like, and both are recognisable from the ears before anything else. Work a small flat circle, fold it, and sew it on at the ten and two o'clock positions. Angling them slightly outward does more for the silhouette than making them bigger.
Head props. Pinki's ribbon, Oren's headphones, Simon's antenna and Brud's bucket are separate pieces sewn or glued on. Make them removable where you can — a character with a hat that comes off is a better toy, and it lets one body serve two characters.
Eyes. Flat felt eyes with a black outline are closer to the artwork than plastic safety eyes, which reflect light and read as glossy. Cut the white shape first, then the black pupil slightly smaller, and glue in place before the head is closed if you can reach.
Outlines. Black has a white outline and most others have a dark edge. A single crochet border worked around a flat face piece, in one shade lighter or darker than the body, reproduces that edge without any colourwork.
Finishing, and one safety point
Sew every attachment twice, and pull the knots inside the body rather than leaving them on the surface. If the finished piece is going to a child under three, skip safety eyes and any small glued part entirely: they are a choking hazard, and no amount of glue makes them safe.
If you ever move from making to selling, that changes what you have to do. Soft toys sold in the United States fall under federal children's product rules, including labelling and material testing, and a handmade item is not exempt. Keep hobby pieces as gifts, and treat anything sold as an adult collectible marked 14 and over.
What is allowed, and what is not
Making these for yourself, for your children, or as a gift needs no permission from us, and it never will. That is for personal, non-commercial use; not for sale, not for mass production.
Once it is finished, take a photograph of it. The fan works wall takes pictures from anyone who made something, and shows each one with the name of the person who made it.
These rules do not change between versions. The original game, every mod, and any future variant are covered the same way: a character that only appears in one mod is treated exactly like the twenty in the chart above, and a variant design is just as free to make for yourself.
What we ask you not to do
- Sell the finished toy, a printed copy of this pattern, or a kit built around it. Those are physical goods, they sit outside the fan content policy that covers video, and they need a written licence.
- Run a production batch: a factory order, a shop listing with a quantity, or anything made by someone else to sell.
- Republish this page's colour chart as your own pattern, paid or free, or put it behind a paywall.
- Put the characters on merchandise, packaging, or into a token or NFT product.
- Register the character names as your own trademarks, or claim the designs as yours.
None of that touches the video side. Recording yourself making one, posting the process, or streaming a session is allowed under the fan content policy, and the ad revenue on it stays with you.
If you want to sell, or a shop has asked you to supply them, write to hi@sprunki.com and describe what you have in mind. A licence is a conversation, not a refusal.
Where to go next
The character pages carry the full profile for each one, including birthday, personality and horror form, which is often the reference people actually need when a detail is ambiguous. Start from the character hub, then open the individual entry.
- Play the game — every character's sound starts here.
- SPRUNKI characters hub — all twenty profiles in one place.
- Character roles — beats, effects, melodies and vocals.
- Sprunki games — the mods these characters appear in.
- More guides — the rest of the blog.